Whether you were an early adopter of the loafer movement, or you’re just looking into your first pair now, you may have noticed the market is a bit over-saturated. They all kind of look the same online, right? How could they possibly be different?
Like any great product, it’s significance is a built around a combination of elements working in harmony. With loafers, we’re looking at heel slip, shape of the toe, and material/color. Let me explain through an audit of all the loafers I own. As always, let’s run this from price low-high.
Scarosso ‘Edward’ Loafer - $370
My newest acquisition is the Scarosso ‘Edward’ loafer. I waited to finish this article just to add this pair, and so far it has not disappointed.
With a similar toe box shape to the Alden 986, I was really excited to style these in with some M-41 trousers. The wider toe box silhouette doesn’t get swallowed by width of the pants, which is a crucial consideration when pairing loafers and pants.
The leather is definitely quite stiff, and the break in after 2 days has been a little painful at times, but nothing like Red Wings. On that note the shape is still holding quite well after some long walks, and there is little to no heel slip in my thinnest dress socks (I finally ordered the right size).
I’m really excited to see how these continue to break in and patina, but for now I put these at the top of the list for a high quality loafer that pays homage a classic.
Morjas Horsebit Loafer - $399
Imagine yourself, seaside on the balcony of a beautiful Palazzo somewhere along the Amalfi Coast. You’re wearing high waisted white linen pants with a vintage Lacoste polo tucked in, carrying a local newspaper even though you don’t speak Italian. But what’s on the feet? I’ll tell you what’s on the feet. It’s the Morjas Horesbit Loafer.
The shape of the toe sits perfectly between narrow and straight. Not too dandy, not too collegiate. Really, this shape can be styled up or down easily. For me, it’s a pair of 501s with no break hanging over these. Or shorts and no socks for ultimate sartorial sexiness!
A bit more heel slip with these, but this is easily solved with a tongue pad if needed.
Velasca ‘Moros’ Loafer - $930
Okay, I know that was a pretty big jump in price point, but just a reminder here that this is based on the loafers I currently own. That being said, I absolutely love the Velasca Moros Loafer.
Iconic rounded toe silhouette, cordovan leather, and the best heel slip prevention I’ve ever felt in a loafer. I got these a 1/2 size too big but even in the thinnest of socks my heel doesn’t slip at all. There seems to be a small indentation around the heel where the flesh side curves in and back out a bit. I could see how this most subtle detail helps hook into the heel a bit better. If this was intentional it’s an ingenious detail that all loafers should learn from.
These were a bit stiff on the sides around my ankle bone to start, but they softened up quite quickly. Given how round these are (and that I got a 1/2 size too big), I have found myself styling these with baggier pants lately. Specifically a pair of Todd Snyder Relaxed Fit Jeans and a Rothcho MA-1 Bomber Jacket.
John Lobb ‘Lopez’ Loafer - $1,780
There’s only one thing that needs to be said about the John Lobb Lopez. I wore a brand new pair for a full day at Pitti Uomo last June and felt like I was wearing sneakers. These are by far the most comfortable and soft leather loafers money can buy.
I think the shape of these is great as well. Similar to the Morjas loafers, these straddle the narrow/straight toe box really well. The “Dark Brown Museum Calf” color is also unlike anything you will ever see, and it only gets better with age. This is an investment piece that you will request to be buried in, no doubt about it.
Honorary Mentions
Here’s a short list of loafers I do not own but admire for different, unvetted, reasons:
GH Bass Weejuns - The iconic starter pair. Start here to learn your sizing and how to style. Very versatile shape, but will probably blow out on you sooner than later.
Alden 986 - 1950s American collegiate menswear summed up in a shoe. The north star for shape and quality.
Horatio Dartmouth - I have no real reason to say I like this loafer other than from their marketing materials. Have I been duped? Someone who owns a pair comment below and tell me what you think.
Duke + Dexter - Feel like they’re having the most fun? Real wide shape, might feel a bit big and be confusing on sizing when knowing you need to break them in, but I’ll leave that to people actually own them to tell me.
Any others I forgot? Let me know!